Sunday, April 24, 2016

36. Six month mark

April 24, 2016
It’s hard to believe that nearly 6 months have passed since we left Ann Arbor! Since saying farewell to friends and family last Fall, we have managed to get settled into our lives and routines here in Rwanda.

Life in equatorial Africa has a different rhythm than the Midwest of the USA. Seasons are now defined by the amount of rain we receive, rather than by temperatures, falling leaves, budding flowers, and blowing snow! Temperatures here range from the upper 60s at night to around 90 during the day, with most days in the 72-86 degree range. Sunshine abounds, and the trees and grass are always green.

Rwanda is known as the “Land of a 1000 Hills,” and we can confirm that this country has virtually no flat ground, except along some river basins in the valleys. Agriculture is the primary economic activity here, and the hills are absolutely covered with crops, including maize, banana, beans, potatoes, cassava, sugarcane, rice, coffee and tea.

We live in the capital city of Kigali. Even with a population of over 1 million, and development happening at impressive speeds, there are still plots of land used by residents to grow their essentials. Ruth Ann and our guard, Simeon, have managed to cultivate and plant a fairly successful garden in a portion of our property that is essentially an unused driveway. The soil quality on our property is very poor, but things are still growing.

Isaac and Naomi have just 5 weeks of school left. For Isaac, this third term of the school year, which started at the end of February, is all about preparing for and taking the Cambridge IGCSE exams. There is virtually no new material taught in the 3rd term. Rather, teachers spend class time “revising” previously taught material, so students can be ready for the nearly month-long exam period. Isaac made the honor roll for the 2nd term (his first term here), and he seems to be ready to do well on the exams in May.

Naomi also made the honor roll last term, even after being promoted from 5th to 6th grade after the Christmas holiday. She is doing well in the new class, and aims to be one of the top performers in her class this term. Outside of school, Naomi is taking violin lessons, spending time with friends and passing time reading books. She has taken a bit of an interest in running, which in this part of the world is more demanding than in Michigan (altitude and hills are the biggest challenges!).

John has devoted a lot of time to working on consulting projects for his Michigan clients. His plan to work with the local water utility in Kigali fell apart after the utility decided they needed a full-time person working for 2 years on the project, rather than a part-time person for 9 months. He has had a few conversations with local non-profits, who might be interested in his experience in local government and water utility issues.

Peak season (for coffee) has started! The coffee cherries are coming in to the 250 washing stations that dot the mountainsides. So Ruth Ann has been crazy busy with related items for the MSU project that brought us here, as well as efforts to grow her coffee importing and coffee consulting business. Selling consulting services to local coffee companies is proving more challenging than first imagined, so Ruth Ann is doing some independent research and visiting coffee washing stations to develop a better understanding of where she could best apply her skills in the coffee value chain.

[Note: in May Ruth Ann realized part of the problem to selling services like "lean training." There is an ingrained culture in Rwanda and other African countries that the trainer must pay the trainees to spend time in the classroom. It's bad enough that there is an assumption that all training is free, but add to that the expectation that all trainees will receive a per diem, sometimes as much as $10/day, and you can see why very little training happens and when it happens (with per diems paid), it is only marginally appreciated therefore it's impact is greatly reduced.]

We enjoyed a visit from Noah in January. He was stressed while here, as he was waiting for final grades and final acceptance from Ford for a job in the sales division. All has worked out for him, and he is now living in Memphis, TN. He is responsible for sales to all Ford dealership service departments in the state of Arkansas. He’s only been there 2 weeks, so he is still not entirely familiar with the work and territory. If anyone has experience living in Memphis, please let us know. Noah has so far found it very difficult to adapt to living in that area. He doesn’t know anyone there, and the culture is vastly different than what he is familiar with. Any tips to help him adjust would be appreciated! He hopes to be there only one year, but his assignment may go 2 years.

Locally, we have managed to see some of the country, and we hope to see more after school is out. We spent a few days at a lake resort in Gisenyi, which is on Lake Kivu, right on the border with DRC. Noah, Isaac, Naomi and Ruth Ann spent a few days in Musanze, visiting Volcanoes National Park. Noah and Isaac hiked to the top of Mount Bisoke (exhausting and muddy). They were lucky enough to see some gorillas on their hike. Naomi and Ruth Ann visited Rosamond Carr’s homestead and took a hike to see the Golden Monkeys. John stayed home to work on projects those days. We all travelled together to visit Akagera National Park, where we saw lots of baboons, some elephants, hippopotamus, bird, velvet monkeys and other wildlife.

Two weeks ago we were in Uganda for a few days. Rwanda was essentially shut down for the annual Genocide Memorial week. Many expats take the time to leave the country to visit other places. We were amazed as we drove through Rwanda to the Uganda border and saw not a single business open. The road was practically all ours, as Rwandans were meeting in their local villages to discuss the genocide, and learn about preventing future genocides.

[Author: John]

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